First step toward turbo

Not a bad idea, the stiff rubber.

 

I'm going to try it first. It's all experimental! There is a bit of longitudinal play in the throttle shafts so I think they will move before there is any stress on the link welds. There will also be thermal expansion forces at work being aluminum so I'll have to watch it and check for binding in all temps/conditions for a while.

I'm going to weld it tonight hopefully, so I'll post some pics soon. The batteries died on my dodge cummins this morning, so I have to deal with that too...we'll see.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Chay

Yeah, I'll clean the crap out of the parts. I just wanted to tack it to check allignment and make sure it didn't bind.

I've been thinking about the coupling...I think the movement in the rubber will either be too much in tortion and throw the synch off, or be too stiff and not allow and movement, especially in the longitudinal dimension.

So I've been thinking about a slide coupling...something like cutting link in two, then welding a 3/8 bolt head on one side and a 3/8 socket on the other side. This would be tortionally very stiff, but allow the coupling to slide longitudinally and pivot slightly without affecting synch.


Comments? Ideas?

Chay

OK idea, but that sort of linkage might sag and bind because there's not enough overlap.  Worth a try though.

I would go to a bigger hobby shop.  They have various brass and aluminum rounds and tubes.  Find a solid round for half of the linkage and a tube for the other.  In the solid round, drill a hole near the end of the shaft that will allow a roll pin to fit tightly.  This roll pin would have to stick out a bit from one side.  Make a slot in the tube that is just wide enough for the roll pin to slide in without binding.  Now put the solid round into the tube till the hole lines up with the slot and tap the pin in.

Easy?

DG

CFoss wrote: So I've been thinking about a slide coupling...something like cutting link in two, then welding a 3/8 bolt head on one side and a 3/8 socket on the other side. This would be tortionally very stiff, but allow the coupling to slide longitudinally and pivot slightly without affecting synch. Comments? Ideas? Chay

I could draw this better than describing it, but....

---|O|---
A shaft, with a metal 'washer' welded to it. Rubber washer. Another metal 'washer' on another shaft.

Each metal washer gets 2 rivets spaced 180* apart attaching it to the rubber.

(did that even make sense?!)

No updates yet, for those watching this thing come to life (ala frankenstein)

 

I've been busy ripping out the air conditioning condensor, replacing the 4cyl rad with a 6 cyl (I found the 4cyl wasn't up to the job) and replacing the rad fan with one that doesn't groan when it starts up and replacing the rad fan temp switch and testing that out too.

Now it all works and is back together (mostly).

I had some issues with cooling obviously. I needed to fix these before I fire it up and try to tune the engine.

I think I'm going to stick with my orininal idea for the throttle linkage. Perhaps not show quality (Unless I chrome the parts), but very effective.

 

Chay

Not 100% sure on this, but....  look into some small power tools like a weed eater.  They use flexible shafts, and I for some reason think some use very small u-joint like affairs.

The u joint I have is a bit big, but there is no plastic like many of the smaller ones I've seen. I've seen a few weed eaters apart and they had slide splined sections on the power head end of the flex shaft like a driveshaft to tranny coupling, but no unis that I saw. Besides, I don't have any hanging around...I guess I could check out a repair shop for parts.

The slide idea is ok if the expansion/contraction is linear, but will not work if the plenums pivot because this will place of force on the sliding portion of the rod. Sooner or later it will bind. I think this will occur because of the spread nature of the plenums (The angle). That's where the universal has an advantage. Plus, if my throttle bodies are not perfectly alligned (Throttle shafts slightly out of line) the universal is the best way to take up the angle and prevent wear/binding with a 'solid' link.

And ok, here's the thing...I kinda like stuff that looks a little funny but works well. I couldn't tell you why. To me the 'perfect' engine bay has been done to death. I like a little home cookin in there. I'll never colour coordinate my ignition leads, that's for sure.

But that's just me.

Chay

I did some more today. Basically I welded on the end plates and fabbed up some port connections for the MAP sensor and the brake booster:



Above is the brake booser hose connection and the MAP connection.


I took some round 1/2 inch stock pieces and mill them down with the help of a drill press and a file.








Here's the booster hose one



And the MAP one. I drilled each of them at this point.




Here they are layed out on the end plates. The other 2 will be drilled out for the balance tube to connect to.

I welded at this point. Then I drilled through the plates all too.




Final pic.

Now, for the throttle cable bracket and linkage coupler...



Chay

And ok, here's the thing...I kinda like stuff that looks a little funny but works well. I couldn't tell you why. To me the 'perfect' engine bay has been done to death. I like a little home cookin in there. I'll never colour coordinate my ignition leads, that's for sure.

But that's just me.

I did just repaint my valve covers though....silver for a bit of bling (I mean, to prevent them from corroding).

I guess I`m not immune.

Chay

Sick brother. Be sure to snap those pictures soon, I'm curious to see the results.