3400 Heads

Romeo wrote: Well, just finished unloading $400 on Moog Ball joints

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Romeo wrote: I started reading up on the Rodney Dickman one's, and didn't like what I saw

Come on now, that's not fair. Either say what the problem is or supply a couple of links.

Romeo wrote: Well, either I could remain at stock heights, in which case it was cheaper for me to go to stock replacements... Moogs were adjustable

I dunno man, suit yourself.

Front Lower Ball Joint (no drop) - $18 

Front Upper Ball Joint (adjustable)- $20 

Rear Lower Ball Joint - $27.00 

Note - Receive 10% off from Rodney Dickman on any purchase of 4 or more tie rods and/or ball joints (any combination).

Romeo wrote: Canadian Brokerage Fee Per Ball Joint: $30.

On an $18 item ????

Where the heck did you get that info from?

Have them sent through USPS, not through a private carrier such as UPS or FedEx, and any brokerage fees will be minimal.

Romeo wrote: Besides, I was still concerned with the welding statement...

There is NO welding required for any of the ball joints pictured above, including the non-drop front lower ball joints.

Tristan, I'm not trying to give you a difficult time, honest. I just don't want anyone reading these posts to be turned off a viable, cost effective alternative for quality ball joints because of misinformation.

 Forgive me I am going to play both sides of the coin in this post, so bare with my rambling.

   Ok I was going to let it slide as Romeo had already bought the parts and me pipping up was not going to make a difference aside from making him look like a novice.  However Patrick did bring up a good point and maybe I should speak up.

All lower ball joints from the factory were press in, if your control arms are good, then a simple press in of ANY new lower is fine, however most people do put a tack weld on it just for the extra security because once the control arm is stretched for the first one, it does not magically stretch back.  

     So Rodney's regardless of what you read, can be used without welding, however most mechanics will recommend a tack weld, in fact anyone that does not say a tack weld is a good idea should be questioned.

    Now as to Moog, IMHO they are the best on the market.   As far as I know they were the first ones to offer the adjustable upper ball joints and now I think just about everyone has gone to the adjustable upper design.

     So there was no harm buying either set, just don't say that Rodney's are an issue because he recommends welding them in place. 

   If you flip to my Surgery thread, On Feb 2nd, I was in the hospital, under anesthetic, getting my knee cut open, so I think I might have missed that posting.

lol

As I read it though, there hadn't been any mention of the press-fit in his little page for the lowering-type, which made it seem like they relied upon welding. That's where my concern came from.

And again, looking at the lowering ones, I still don't like the way they change the geometry myself. But that's personal taste, if you were making a show car, or didn't drive the car hard, I suppose there'd be no issue there.

Anyways, I'm planning to mill the heads a touch, and use 20cc dished pistons to offset the milling (End result of everything considered, such as gasket, deck height, pistons, combustion chamber, and pistons, it should be an exact 10:1). So, my hope is that shouldn't be high to warrant premium fuel, but if it does, I suppose I'll just have to suck it up. I've sent off requests to multiple companies to see prices and whatnot, but somehow custom forged just doesn't scream cheap, you know?

Hehe, good bye $750. =D

Anyways, by nature the ball joints MUST change the geometry if altered. The SAI (Where the weight is projected inside or outside the tire) directly relies upon where the ball joints are located, how they're angled and how large they are.